We've been condescended to by the host, ignored by the wait staff, and offended by prices all out of whack with the offerings. So why do we return to the Paper Moon Diner? The meat loaf. Yes, folks, it's all about the meat loaf, two slabs of moist, seasoned ground meat, smothered in rich gravy, paired with garlic mashed potatoes, and preceded by a green salad. The moistness of that loaf can temporarily make us forget about the time the host yelled at us for wanting to sit at the counter during the brunch rush. The sheer size of the slices can make us overlook the faux-artsy décor that would normally make us lose our appetites. What with the amnesia it inspires, it's not just meat loaf; it's magic.

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