Ah, the dear, dear crab cake. How do we love thee? Let us count the ways. Some love you for your size, your seasoning, your binder. Us, we'll take a cake that's big, but not inflated with bread, cracker crumbs, or other fillers. A touch of Old Bay, but not so much that it masks the sweetness of fresh, well-picked lump meat. Likewise, a touch of mayo or mustard, just enough to moisten the lumps. If you share our priorities, go to the Backfin and ask for its top-of-the-line cake. Add a spritz of lemon and munch a saltine, if you must, but don't dip, don't dunk, and for God's sake, don't smash it inside a bun. Savor it lump by lump, each forkful revealing the cake's gleaming white architecture. Here's a food fit for the gods and for crab-cake purists who consider themselves a cut above mere mortals.

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