When we're in the mood for finger-lickin' good, we head not to the Colonel, but toward Randallstown and Courtney's There the ribs are spicy sweet, the chicken is fried to a fault, and the sides are big and Southern-style, from candied yams to chunky mac and cheese to ham-hock-scented collards. Don't miss the crunchy, sweet buffalo shrimp, so good you'll want a double order, or the astounding catfish with pepper slaw. This is the kind of fish that converts die-hard mammal eaters. Green beans and potato salad are just fine, and there's live music Saturday nights. Eat in and relax in rustic surroundings, or call ahead and carry the fixins home. Either way, don't be surprised to find you're developing a drawl.

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