There must be a pizza joint every few blocks in this burg. So who'd have thunk our current favorite would come from a coffee bar--let alone a chain coffee bar known as much for its hit-and-miss food as its top-drawer java? But there it is: Donna's four-cheese is ambrosia in disc form. We're not generally big fans of "white pizza," but the quartet du fromage on this pie creates such an intense blend of flavors you won't miss the sauce. Piquant Romano, gorgonzola, and fontinella joust atop a base of sturdy provolone and a thin crust baked well done, just enough to give it a crisp shell but leave the bread inside soft and spongy. Elegant, simple, delicious. At $7.95 for a pie that won't feed two, it's not the best pizza deal in town, but if you like cheese it's worth every nickel.

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