It's an Indian place that's a little bit Roland Park and a little bit . . . France. The Ambassador Dining Room sits tucked underneath the Ambassador Apartments on Canterbury Road, and everything from the wait staff to the tandoori chicken sports a touch of polish. Follow the apartment building's maze of stairways and locked doors--the staff will buzz you in. Sit outside on the dining room's back patio, in a wicker chair, at a table with white tablecloths and a flickering candle. Let the jacket-and-tie waiters bring you a plate of palak paneer or alu gobi. The dishes are saucy and beautifully presented--unveiled from beneath a cover and accompanied by garlic nan nestled in a bread basket. The creamy texture of many dishes leave us thinking of French cooking, but with spices that can outdo some old butter-and-wine sauce any day.

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