We really thought about it this year. We even wavered. We checked out Beltway Fine Wine and Spirits, the booze warehouse just off Interstate 695 on Loch Raven Boulevard, and we were duly impressed (as was the state legislature, which passed a law earlier this year limiting the size of liquor stores, effectively banning any more such booze behemoths in most of Maryland). Beltway's selection and everyday prices are comparable to, in many cases even better than, Wells' (see "Best Discount Wine Store").

So why stick with the gold mine at the county line? We can name that Best-of in six words: Theakston's Old Peculier for 99 cents. Translation: Besides good day-in, day-out service, selection, and savings, Wells almost always has a delightful surprise up its sleeve. One day it might be a wine special covering the store's entire stock. The next, six-packs of top-flight stuff on sale, cheap. (We've picked up, among others, Oxford, Brimstone, Saranac, New Amsterdam, Abita, Rhino Chasers, Kirin, even the mighty Buffalo Bill's Alimony Ale for $3.99 or less.) The next, bomber bottles of wonderful, hard-to-find or hard-to-afford stuff such as Old Peculier, a darkish British ale we grew fond of on a recent trip overseas, for less than a buck. Hey, in retail it's the little things that make the difference.

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