Sign up for our newsletters   

Baltimore City Paper home.
Print Email

Eats and Drinks

Best Crab Cake

Gunning's Seafood Restaurant

7304 Parkway Dr., Hanover, (410) 712-9404

Posted 9/17/1997

Remember on M*A*S*H, when Hawkeye and Trapper wanted their martini extra dry, they'd tell the bartender something like, "Just wave the vermouth bottle over the glass"? That's kind of how we feel about crab cakes. If you could make one by just waving a jar of mayonnaise over a pile of broiled, Old Bay-accented lump meat, we'd be all for it. The laws of physics being what they are, we settle for just enough-just barely enough-mayonnaise and breadcrumbs to hold the little devil together. Lots of crab cakes are larded with all sorts of extras-eggs and hot sauce and chunks of bread and bits of onion and pepper and what-have-you-which might get you a pleasant little dish, but is any that stuff better than the crab meat itself? No. When we order a crab cake, we wanna dance with the crustacean what brung us. Which brings us to this year's champion. Gunning's Seafood Restaurant (not to be confused with Gunning's Crab House in Brooklyn-the folks who run this place started that South Baltimore landmark but sold it years ago) makes a cake that triumphantly mixes excess and minimalism: the former represented by the bumper crop of pearly white lump meat (and we do mean lump-there's nary a hint of the mushy, shredded meat you often find in local cakes), the latter by the light hand with the filler, of which there's just enough to bind the crab meat and accent its flavor. Did we mention that it's mouth-wateringly delicious? The emphasis here is on the crab, not the cake, and that's just the way we like it.

Read more

Other Awards for Best Crab Cake:

Pappas, 9/16/2009

Perring Place, 9/17/2008

Duda's Tavern, 9/19/2007

Buddy's Elliott Street Bar and Grille, 9/20/2006

Crab Cake Factory, 9/21/2005

Regiís American Bistro, 9/22/2004

Patrick's of Pratt Street, 9/17/2003

Faidley Seafood, 9/18/2002

The Backfin, 9/13/2000

Crossroads, 9/15/1999

Faidley Seafood, 9/18/1996

All Awards for Gunning''s Seafood Restaurant:

Best Crab House, 9/19/2007

Related stories

Eats and Drinks archives

More Stories

Best New Restaurant (9/19/2007)
Rocket to Venus

Best Fancy Restaurant (9/19/2007)
Charleston

Best Cheap Restaurant (9/19/2007)
Eastern House

Comments powered by Disqus
Calendar
CP on Facebook
CP on Twitter