Our natural inclination when it comes to looking for Best of Baltimore winners is to search within the city limits. Sometimes, though, we just can't help but recognize that great things are happening in the burbs. Thus, this year's sushi winner happens to be way out York Road in Cockeysville, where the experienced sushi chefs of San Sushi-a relative newcomer on the scene-have been quietly cutting, slicing, and rolling superior sushi for nearly two years. Their talents are apparent not only in their finished products, but in the faces of the restaurant's regulars (many of whom are Asian-always a good sign), who are obviously appreciative of the good eats. To let the chefs really show off their stuff, order the sushi and sashimi combination platter-six pieces of sushi, nine of sashimi, and one of several "Chef Special" sushi rolls-all for $20.95, with soup or salad. It's heaven enough for two; it'll keep one diner occupied for the better part of the evening. Either way, savor the flavor and texture of expertly selected and carved fish, very fresh and beautifully presented. Remember, though, San Sushi has no liquor license, so bring your own hooch.

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