Soul food's all about crispy fried chicken, tender barbecued ribs, pork in all the vegetables, custardlike macaroni and cheese, and rivers of gravy. Micah's Cafeteria in Park Heights knows all about that, especially the gravy, which is rich and sinful and oh so good when poured on mashed potatoes or chicken. The seasoned, battered lake trout is made to order; the sweet potatoes are fresh (and only lightly "candied"); the corn muffins are moist; and the collard greens taste sweeter than the bitter standard. Maybe that's because Micah's bends that "pork in all the vegetables" rule: We didn't spy any telltale bits of fatback in the collards we ate there recently, so maybe even vegetarians can cobble together a plate of Micah's luscious down-home fare.

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