Imagine a Rice Krispies Treat, Southeast Asian-style. Something like a cloud of chewy fried noodles shellacked in a sweet pink goo, dotted all over with bits of shrimp and pork. It's called Mee Krob, and it's just one of the many standard Thai dishes turned out with aplomb at Ban Thai. There's the ubiquitous beef or chicken satay served with its requisite (fab) peanut sauce and a vinegary cucumber salad. Fish cakes called tord mun-the consistency of fried gum erasers-are always nicely spiced. Soups are delicious, all liberally stocked with kaffir lime leaves, chunks of galangal root, and little coins of lemon grass. But pad Thai is the real "chef"-d'oeuvre: sweet rice noodles sautéed with prawns, boiled egg, ground peanuts, bean sprouts, salty dried shrimp, and pickled turnip, finished with a big squeeze of lime.

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