We’ve tried a few of Baltimore’s upscale restaurants. There are plenty of good ones. But then there are the rare breed that are so excellent we’re still thinking about them days after our dinner, playing the meal back in our heads and licking our lips. Corks is one of those places. It has all the elements that turn a nice restaurant into a still-drooling-the-next-day one. The ambiance is lovely. Corks has two beautiful rooms with very different feels—we prefer the dark backroom filled with bottles of wine. The menu is small but diverse, so there’s always something for everyone in your party. And while chef Jerry Pellegrino has a knack for mixing together interesting tastes and textures, the food never feels weird for weirdness’ sake. Then there’s the reason for Corks’ name: a huge selection of wines, and the folks here can help you make an expert selection even if your knowledge of wine is little more than knowing it comes in red and white. And that sort of service, helpful but not obtrusive, knowledgeable but never snobby, is just another reason we keep going back.