The crabmeat isn’t the only sweet thing here. The staff and the Locust Point blue-collar ambiance are Baltimore at its unpretentious sweetest, too. Fight and connive (maybe bribe) to sit on the rooftop deck, the quintessential setting for ripping open crab carcasses and pounding back pitchers of Natty Bo. For crab-o-phobes, more steamed seafood (oysters, clams, shrimp) and fried family fare at L.P. Steamers are respectable at best, serviceable at worst. The allure of a crab house is almost incidentally about the crabs; it’s more urgently about breaking down boundaries and communing sloppily with your friends, family, and the folks at the next table. Preferably, up on the roof.

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