There are lamentably few restaurants in Baltimore that boast their own pastry chefs, and as a result dessert in this town is pretty predictable. It’s just damn unfair that in order to get a really great ending to a meal you got to shell out major bucks to eat someplace like Charleston or Soigne. Reasonable restaurants with otherwise good food seem to just kind of nod off during dessert time, either serving the same uninspired crème brûlées or death-by-chocolate whatevers. Which is why we are such enthusiastic fans of the homemade cakes at Golden West. Wow. They’re made for the restaurant by a local Hampden lady, Miss Rose, who sure knows what she’s doing. The lofty layers are moist and substantial without being dense, and the rich, velvety frosting is nothing less than a work of art. Every time we polish our cake plate of the last few crumbs of good ol’ yellow cake with chocolate icing, or the to-die-for mocha-iced chocolate cake, we reflect how fantastic desserts don’t need to be fancy—just good

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