Consistency and integrity are what drove us to give Sabatino’s the Best Italian nod for the first time in three years. This is vintage Italian-American fare, in taste as well as in atmosphere, where the emphasis is on deeply steeped flavors in sauces and meats, considerate service for families and couples alike, and portions hearty enough to make you feel like you’re visiting Grandma. No one’s gonna pour you a plate of extra virgin olive oil to go with your bread here, and you’re not going to hear anyone refer to the bruschetta as broo-SKET-ta. This is Italian without apology: Tongue-tingling penne and vodka sauce; chicken Florentino avalanched in dreamy cheeses (ask for it, it’s not always on the menu); piquant scalloppines and crisp-baked parmigianas—this is real deal, served in an environment (a rowhouse in the heart of Little Italy) that’s as honest as the food. And the waitresses, in their little blue polyester outfits, will probably call you “sweetie.” When’s the last time you got that at the Olive Garden?