There may not be a tremendous amount of competition in this category; Charm City has been hurting for a good Ethiopian restaurant since Ghion shut down and the folks at Five Seasons decided to stop caring about running a restaurant. But X Café succeeds on its own merits; the small, quiet Federal Hill restaurant serves up Ethiopian food exactly how it should be done. The yesega tibbs is thick, spicy, and completely satisfying, and the lentils in the yesimir wot are seasoned to perfection. But we usually go with the meat or vegetable combination plates, both gifts to the indecisive. The atmosphere is relaxed (and BYOB), the prices are low, and the service is remarkably courteous. Even if the competition were stronger, X Café would still stand out.