Eats and Drinks
Best Soul Food Restaurant
Heaven’s Gate Eatery
Sam Holden
Best Soul Food: Heaven's Gate Eatery
1825 N. Smallwood St., (410) 523-9800, Web site
Serving the best soul food in Baltimore means having a complicated mix of things—the best fried chicken, the best the peach cobbler, etc.—and everything must be cooked in the best fat back. And if you ask us, you can only find this heaven on a plate at the Heaven’s Gate Eatery in Coppin Heights. All the requirements are met. The fried chicken is cooked to a highly attractive golden brown, its skin crunchy but not too crunchy, the chicken tender but not too tender. And the mac ’n’ cheese—sinful plumes of cheese gleaming from the serving dish. Oh, and the cobbler: peaches extra sweet yet balanced by crispy batter that dances on your taste buds to the point that you just can’t go without one more piece. Eating soul food is an otherworldly experience, really, a Xanadu only for those whose need for taste-bud adventure is more compelling than their waistlines. So for our money, Heaven’s Gate is your best soul food bet. And hey, if you die while you’re eating, you will go to heaven.