Whether or not the latest Charles Street “renaissance” takes hold, we’re pretty sure Mick O’Shea’s is going to be just fine. There are no gimmicks to be found on this pub’s menu. Irish specialties, of course, are here, like bangers and mash and fish and chips, and they’re terrific. But there’s no overreaching effort to be “authentic,” except in the places it counts. Unlike some other pubs in town, the folks here don’t try to make you feel like you’re in Ireland with imported fixtures and ancient farm tools on the wall. But sometimes you can lose yourself, like the cheese plate appetizer that reminds us of one we had in Hibernia years ago, or the perfect head on every pint of Guinness. There’s a list of somewhat upscale dishes, like filet mignon and sesame-encrusted yellowfin tuna, but a bar’s a bar, so stick with the pub fare. The burgers are among the city’s finest (Best Of, 2003), those chips (or fries, or whatever you want to call them) are very, very good, and there’s football (the American kind) on the television.

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