You may remember that ad from decades ago: If you want to get someone's attention, whisper. This little Afghan beauty in Mount Vernon has been whispering in our ears for years now, with the understated eloquence of both its ambiance and its cooking, the smooth service and consistent quality of dishes we have come to know and love. Who couldn't make a meal from the appetizers alone--the spicy pan-fried pumpkin, the tart chick-pea salad, the hearty noodle soup, the piquant puréed eggplant? Then again, who could resist entrées that rise above the culinary competition but rarely rise above a $12 price tag--the lush Afghan ravioli, the rich mushroom or chicken lawand, the tender kebabs? A town, a restaurant, a love story.

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