We're not sure what makes a bagel kosher, but we are sure we could get the answer from anyone standing in line to snag a dozen at Goldberg's, where the New York-style bagels take you back to the Lower East Side. The folks here will top them with a schmear, lox, even avocado, but we need nothing more than a plain black Russian (dark, chewy, sweet) or a heady, aromatic everything bagel to enjoy the complete experience. Well, OK, a bowl of their barley soup wouldn't be bad. A little hummus, maybe, if you insist.

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