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MaGerk’s is a solid example of the decent if uninspiring sports bar: clean enough to eliminate any divey-ness, cool wood counters and exposed brick walls, and full to the brink with fresh-outta-college professionals, at least on $4 Philly Cheese Steak Thursdays. From 7 to 10 on said night, they serve up any of the fatty cheese steaks on the menu (except, sorry, “I don’t eat red meat” people, the chicken version) with a bag of Utz and a pickle. Tan girls—seriously, who are they fooling? it’s not even Spring Break 2005! yet—in gossipy groups may invade your personal space, and the number of backward Terps baseball caps is shocking, but the foot-long cheese steak kicks a li’l ass: shredded steak sautéed with onions, American cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and Russian dressing. Try the MaGerk’s special with salami if you need the extra sodium; otherwise stick with the original and order some beers. Just watch where you park. A $4 dinner in Federal Hill ain’t worth a $40 ticket.

E-mail Wendy Ward