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Soup’s On

Phone:410-235-9801
Address:842 W. 36th St.
Baltimore, MD 21211

More on Soup’s On.

By Wendy Ward | Posted 3/22/2006

This tiny li’l café sits on the sunny side of the Avenue in Hampden and serves house-made soups alongside the sweet treats of Rose. Executive chef Cynthia Shea keeps her herbs in large Mason jars and makes soups that don’t confuse salty for tasty. On the afternoon we visited her chalkboard featured a puréed broccoli soup with a hint of lemon topped with sharp cheddar. Made with a touch of milk instead of cream, it was hearty, not heavy. The chicken, potato, lentil, (perfectly firm) carrot, lemon, and balsamic offering had a rich, smoky flavor. Both were outstanding, but the winter soup was best of the trio: barley, red beans, carrots, greens, and squash in a glistening veggie stock hit with both olive oil and bean liquor—the thick liquid lifted from a crock of cooked beans—and topped with shaved Parm. Bowls go for $4.95—or $6.95 with the salad of the day. The arugula, feta, orange, and toasted almonds thinly coated in oil and vinegar we tried proved Shea is as talented on the plate as she is in the bowl. We ate the accompanying warm and crusty wheat baguette from Bonaparte Bakery and had no room for Rose’s offerings. Besides, it’s almost bikini season.

E-mail Wendy Ward

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