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Shaking Duck Butt

This location is closed

By Christopher Skokna | Posted 3/29/2006

How can you resist a restaurant called Shaking Duck Butt? This Glen Burnie spot may also be called Ko Am Restaurant—that’s how it’s listed in the phone book and on your receipt—but Shaking Duck Butt it is on the menu and the building’s facade—in Korean characters; we got a friend to translate—and that’s what we’re going with. SDB’s dishes don’t seem to be substantially better than those found in lower Charles Village or on Route 40 West. However, the produce tastes fresher than the norm and, probably thanks to the complete lack of English on the facade, SDB feels a wee bit more authentic than Baltimore’s average Korean eatery, all making it worth at least one visit.

We stuck with some Korean basics—bibimbab ($8.95) and a seafood stew ($12.95)—and were more than full by meal’s end. Like all Korean dinners, ours started with complimentary panchan (tiny bowls of kimchi and other goodies), which were perfunctory, and also a small but freebie scallion pancake and a boiling-when-served egg casserole, both of which were delish. The bibimbab—a mix of stringy beef, sparkling-fresh veggies, fried egg, and rice—didn’t come in the menu-promised hot pot, but instead in a big aluminum bowl; very, very good, nonetheless. And the seafood stew, sinus-clearing spicy but not overwhelming, churned out a couple of tasty and mega-plump oysters and seemingly endless chunks of quality fish. So shake those tail feathers and get there already.

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