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By Bret McCabe | Posted 4/19/2006
The Greenmount Avenue/York Road corridor maybe the fried chicken, Chinese food, and pizza-and-subs bodega capital of the free world. Who has the time—or gastrointestinal fortitude—to try them all? And while this lower Govans Chinese takeout storefront offers the usual laundry list of lo mein, egg foo young, and kung pao entrées found from here to Flagstaff, it also includes six vaguely Thai noodle items that are above and beyond the fast-and-cheap norm. The ho fun (wide noodle) and mai fun (thin) dishes top out at $8.95 and easily feed two, or make a great solo dinner with plenty for the next day’s lunch. The Singapore mai fun ($7.95) tosses vermicelli rice noodles with fresh green onions and an assortment of tofu chunks, whole shrimp, and julienned chicken and pork in an unobtrusive and piquant tangy sauce that lightly covers everything. It’s fresh and light—and if you squeeze a fresh lime quarter over it when you get home, it brightens and sharpens its subtle spiciness.