Locals know Jerry D's for its crabs. Evidently, they are so good a woman in line with us "shwooped" across traffic to take advantage of the new batch of soft-shells advertised on the board outside. We came in on a hot dog yen--also on a giant placard--but changed our minds when we saw the slabs of freshly roasted beef. Add Jerry D's to your list of pit beef purveyors, because this sandwich ($5) is dynamite: mounds of the juicy, smoky stuff piled up with fresh horseradish, onions, and black pepper--there's nothin' like it. What sets Jerry D's apart is the bun: a fresh-baked hard roll by Marvin the Baker ("formally at Atlantic Deli" if you caught Aug. 16's Whose Responible?). It takes the sandwich beyond doughy industrial buns and puts pit beef on another plane. Our companion's grilled turkey Reuben ($5.95) was pretty good, too, thanks to Jerry D's house-roasted turkey, but the sandwich suffered from overbuttering. No big deal. There are plenty of seafood sandwiches, along with mussels, shrimp, oysters, and burgers and subs, that we'll have to pick from next time we stop in on a whim.