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Fuji San

Address:10015 York Road
Cockeysville, MD 21030

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By Michelle Gienow | Posted 11/8/2006

Like Thai One On in Towson, a Thai-Japanese restaurant that is sometimes really good and occasionally not, Fuji San is unpredictable. Several visits yielded interesting Thai dishes--some traditional, some creative--that were well conceived and even well prepared, but ultimately disappointing. Take the Pink Lady--jumbo shrimp in a Thai coconut curry sauce ($18.95). Itís got some interesting ingredients (avocado, sweet potatoes, chickpeas) and was cooked right on the money: tender shrimp, crisp vegetables. But the sauce just kind of lies there. Thai cuisine relies on the harmonic balance between sweet and heat, salty, sour, and bitter. This artful blend is what makes Thai, well, taste like Thai. Fuji Sanís kitchen just isnít deft enough to make it work. Maybe the sushi is better--we donít know, we wanted Thai, dammit, so we kept going back only to be disappointed each time. Green papaya salad ($15.95)? Pulled its punches, heat-wise--and no matter how often we asked for the spicy dishes we ordered to be served authentically spicy, they never ever were. Lemon grass chicken ($14.95) lacked the promised lime leaves and maybe even the lemon grass. Even the pad Thai ($12.95) didnít please. Sorry, Fuji San. We tried to make it work, really we did, but trust us when we say itís not us, itís you.

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