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Pollo Latino

Address:401 S. Broadway
Baltimore, MD 

More on Pollo Latino.

By Jess Harvell | Posted 1/31/2007

Small, brightly lit, full of artificial flowers, and with El Zol quietly playing in the background, Pollo Latino's name doesn't lie: It sells chicken, in this case the Peruvian roasted kind, and only chicken. We ordered a whole ($10.99) but ended up with a half ($5.99), and it was plenty for two hungry eaters. Each order comes with two sides, and we went for french fries and deep-fried yucca. (There are also the healthier options of rice and/or salad.) All are available on their own ($1.79, except the yucca, which is $2.29), plus coleslaw (99 cents), which we didn't get, and slightly watery but tasty pinto beans (99 cents), which we did. (It's kind of hard to screw up beans.) The ample fries were your pizza-joint standard; the yucca was slightly tough and overdone, helped by the spicy green salsa, both again too much for one person. The chicken's skin was salty and smoky and its meat was juicy, but this was still Latin American fast food, which is as greasy as the North American kind. We're not sure how late Pollo Latino stays open, but while it was a bit much for a workday lunch, they'd sure clean up when the last-call crowd staggers out of all those Fells Point bars a few blocks up.

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