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Stoltzfus Bar-B-Q

Phone:410-316-1511
Address:Pennsylvania Dutch Market
11121 York Road
Cockeysville, MD 21030

More on Stoltzfus Bar-B-Q.

By Lee Gardner | Posted 2/21/2007

When hitting the suburban York Road big boxes during Saturday errands, we are often forced to make a tough choice for lunch: the smoky Southern barbeque of Andy Nelson's or the "bar-b-q" sold by Allen Stoltzfus inside the caloric wonderland that is the Pennsylvania Dutch Market (open Thursday through Saturday). Like as not, we take our place in line and order a Stoltzfus turkey sandwich ($3.69)--moist, thinly sliced breast meat roasted in the bank of ovens behind the counter and heaped onto a cloudlike white roll, with an optional slice of cheese and a side of OK barbeque sauce included in the price. It's very beige, but it's melt-in-your-mouth good. At a recent visit, the meat for a roast beef sandwich ($3.99, same roll and optional trimmings) was carved off the last bit of a butt end, and thus a little dry; if we had waited 10 minutes, we could have had it fresh off the spit. But with a little roll-your-own horsey sauce, it still whipped most local versions for beefy savor. A side of spiced potato wedges will set you back $2.39, more than most orders of fries, but a filling serving of the plump, tender little morsels is almost more Sunday dinner than fast food. Stoltzfus' proprietary fresh-squeezed lemonade ($1.19 for a small bottle) is a shade on the too-sweet side, but with a subtle citrus bite. Can't wait to do errands in the county again.

E-mail Lee Gardner

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