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Pollo Amigo

Address:714 York Road
Towson, MD 21204

More on Pollo Amigo.

By Michelle Gienow | Posted 5/2/2007

New owners have taken charge of Towson's only chicken rosticceria. From the outside the place looks unchanged, but the menu has been deeply revamped to include a sort of United Nations of Latin American specialties: currently Mexican and Peruvian dishes, with Salvadoran and Ecuadoran dishes like empanadas and pupusas said to be coming soon. First, the fowl: fans of this chicken joint's moist, deeply flavorful roasted bird ($5.95 quarter chicken/two sides, $6.95 half/two sides, $12.95 whole/four sides) will be relieved to hear that it's still righteous: mmm, crispy seasoning-encrusted chicken skin. Side dishes also hold forth with fine, light yucca and sweetly smooshy fried plantain maduro. New and noteworthy additions are the tacos de carne asada ($7.95)--chunks of tender, chile-spiced beef that come with a plate of fixings, tortillas, and rice and beans for creating your own handheld food party--as well as Peruvian saltado ($8.95), available as either herb-flavored beef or chicken chunks sautéed with onions and tomatoes, heaped onto a mound of french fries. Sounds strange, but the fries soften as they absorb the juices and everything sort of collapses into a mound of deliciousness. The house coconut juice ($2) is a barely sweet refreshing quaff.

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