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Tucked into the straightaway of the bleak Hollinswood Shopping Center is a small slice of lake trout heaven, short on ambiance, but long on solid helpings of lightly breaded, freshly fried fish fillets, mild and deftly prepped with nary a hint of unwelcome bone. A "regular" order ($4.40), in this case three fillets, came with the bread we never eat and fries, but we went for the hand-lettered sides menu and took a chance on grits (so-so, swimming in the "butter" we asked for) and collards, which were quite nice, not too salty, although not very much meat mixed into the foliage. To confirm the name on the sign outside, we ordered four wings ($3.99), and were rewarded with meaty, juicy, good-sized wings, fried up in good, not old, not burnt deep-fryer oil. Excepting the collards, we hit everything we ordered with hot sauce and threw some ketchup and pepper on the wings, and you should, too, urp.

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