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The latest addition to the ongoing, albeit gradual, revivification of the Hollins Market area, Zella’s Pizzeria had us at "pizza," in this case the "Sicilian": 10 inches of crusty, salty, substantial pie featuring prosciutto, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, and perfectly baked mozzarella ($11). Our friendly server strongly suggested "anything with spinach and artichoke," which extends to calzone, pizza, and sandwich, and since we already had a lovely prosciutto, salami, ham, pepperoni, and cheese calzone ($9.75) on deck (which turned up enticingly oven-swollen, oozing mozzarella and ricotta), we went for the spinach and artichoke sandwich ($7), assembled on outstanding focaccia with lots of tender artichoke dressed with onions, mozzarella, and feta, and finished with a garlicky sauce. No liquor license yet, but it’s in the works, and there’s a carry-out steps away.

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