We had wondered what happened to La Dolce Vita, the little gelato stand in the southernmost Broadway Market building--it had served delicious bona fide Italian gelato. Well, it's still there, sort of. The place is now called Desperate Dave's and the logo, a mustachioed Sam Elliott-type cowboy, is the unlikely imprimatur of a damn good wallop of gelato (three scoops for $2.85). In addition, DD's sells slices of pie, coffee, danishes, and a line of hot sauces. It's the panini we head back for, though. DD's makes a batch every morning. You pick your sandwich, and they press it, serve it on a plate with some coleslaw, and, well, all the ones we've tried are great. The Southwest, ($5.95) with marinated and grilled chicken, smoked bacon, avocado, red onion, aioli, and Monterey Jack cheese, was superb. The Stone Mill-baked bread was key. The Veggie ($4.95), with portobello mushrooms, mozzarella cheese, caramelized onion, and roasted red peppers, was garnished with house-made tapenade and balsamic vinaigrette. Next time we'll try the Cubano ($4.95), the godfather of pressed sandwiches.