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Why We Go: This is the restaurant we most often tell people to try, and everyone we've sent there has thanked us profusely for the recommendation.

What We Eat: The menu changes all the time, but lately, we have to have the New York strip with wild mushroom gratin and the pork loin with sunchoke-potato pur…e. In general, though, we eat whatever the smart and proud waitstaff is recommending. A visit--or two--for the Maryland menu has turned into an annual pilgrimage.

What We'd Change: Sometimes service breaks down at the bring-the-food phase, or maybe it's the kitchen. Not sure what it is--and it's not like it's chronic--but the less of it the better.