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Why We Go: Because Francophile fools and their money are soon parted.

What We Eat: The lovely paté appetizer, the sumptuous brunch standbys, the seared calves' livers, and the impeccably sparse wine list.

What We'd Change: Add a modest sense of adventure: The "classic French bistro" approach gets tempered here with nods to more conventional American palates, and any kitchen this obviously talented shouldn't be afraid to push its diners toward more adventurous dining ideas.