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Why We Go: The warm blast of fried food-scented air by the front door, foggy memories of Soco and lime shots, and the delightful assortment of Village sots and Hopkins laxers.

What We Eat: The crusty, cheesy, cheap pizza (that comes with a pitcher of beer or coke if you eat in) is the hotness. Order "season fries" if they're in season, which appears to depend on the whim of the cook, and a bowl of the similarly Old Bay-heavy Maryland crab soup--P.J.'s managers boast that "it's won awards."

What We'd Change: Not much. The food is legit and satisfying junk food, and part of the charm is the collegey skeeze of the place (but thanks for the new bathrooms, with doors that really close).