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Why We Go: Andy Nelson's is still the king, but we're happy to have a decent barbecue joint closer to the center of town. The 'cue is convincing--smoky pork and beef brisket that won't make Memphian masters lose any sleep, but will more than do the job. Throw in a side of JD's mongo-seasoned fries and you're talking about the kind of lunch that precludes dinner.

What We Eat: Pulled-pork sandwiches. And did we mention the fries?

What We'd Change: Since it's O'Donnell Square, how about a big parking lot out back? Didn't think so.