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Why We Go: We like to disappear into a restaurant, to forget everything in the world and just get down to the food. From the elegant bonsai plants to the origami cranes strung across the second-floor ceiling, Matsuri makes sure that happens.

What We Eat: The tempura is the gentlest in town; the veggie dynamite roll filled with shiitake and carrot baked beneath spicy mayo is a world-class achievement.

What We'd Change: Any chance Sapporo comes in an even bigger can?