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Of no relation to the same-named place in Hampden, Soup's On in Perry Hall (and in Mount Vernon as of a couple of weeks ago) does pretty much one thing--serves up freshly made soups ($3 cup, $4 bowl, $5 pint; all come with a piece of crostini)--and does it well. What more do you want? We headed to the flagship Belair Road location and sampled two bowls. Our French onion with Gruyère, that soup that has vexed home cooks for eons, tasted as good as any restaurant version we've ever had, but, as it was served in a paper cup, we missed scraping burnt bits of cheese off the side of the crock. The vegan saffron cauliflower with sweet onion was, if not quite as good, still yummy. And we took home a pint of bok choy chicken with shiitakes, the winner of this Cheap Eats outing. It warmed up well, and its spicing provided even more heat. If these soup choices aren't getting you to reach for a spoon, don't worry: Kevin and Keith Mullaney, the twin brothers behind Soup's On, cook up more than 200 varieties (including more than a dozen dessert soups), and the selection changes daily.

E-mail Christopher Skokna