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Serpico Pizza and Pasta

Address:10 Fila Way
Sparks Village
Sparks, Md 

More on Serpico Pizza and Pasta.

By Lee Gardner | Posted 4/2/2008

Why is it so hard to find a decent slice within city limits, but it seems like almost any oven-owning establishment out in the county serves up the crust of the gods? Well, Serpico isn't quite any random restaurant (it came recommended from family), and its slices are a notch or two short of divine, but it's well worth a stop if you find yourself way up York Road. Tucked away in a sterile newish shopping center, Serpico is a clean, well-lit family place with an affordable menu light on surprises but assembled with evident care. That care shows up in the herby kick lent to a slice of white pizza ($2.25) featuring broccoli, fresh tomato, and good ricotta, as well as in the sautéed onions joining ham, salami, and more ricotta on another sauceless slice ($2.25). The crust was way thin, not supercrispy, but excellent nonetheless, although the more standard toppings on the regular ol' cheese slice ($1.75) we tried underwhelmed a bit. An order of manicotti ($9.95) highlighted more of that good ricotta, not to mention what tasted like a homemade shell and a seriously superlative zesty tomato sauce. Serpico's version of tomato bread ($2.25) uses better bread than Fortunato's fabled version but doesn't compare in taste--the only serious misfire.

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