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Lahore Kabob House

This location is closed

By Lee Gardner | Posted 8/13/2008

Not your usual Indian lunch offering, which is perhaps not so surprising since Lahore is a city in Pakistan. No kebabs in evidence during a noon visit, either, though the $7.99-a-head price for the small buffet made overlooking the lack of skewer food easy. An enormous rice cooker housed chicken biryani made with random dark-meat cuts, and a portion proved moist and flavorful. What looked like a warming tray of soupy green buffet war-horse saag paneer contained cubes of potatoes rather than cheese; subtle spicing helped us not miss the crumbly dairy chunks. Lahore's versions of other buffet staples, such as tandoori chicken and cholay (chickpeas), held their own. Everything on offer during our visit that contained meat featured chicken, including a pan of delicate, lightly seasoned and sauced chicken meatballs, but nothing at Lahore was more unusual than the pakora, which were so large and mounded so high on a tray that it looked like a Sunday-dinner serving of fried chicken breasts. More unusual still, they were shot through with potatoes cut into thin strips, creating what amounted to a giant ball of cardamom-infused french fries. Lahore's food tastes and looks like home cooking, right down to the non-calorie-conscious sheen of oil on many dishes. It isn't much, but for an off-the-beaten-path lunch experience in more ways than one, it's plenty, and the carry-out menu we snagged on the way out touted goat, so we'll be back.

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