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Tim Hill

Sin Fronteras Restaurant

This location is closed

By Tim Hill | Posted 3/25/2009

When we noticed Sin Fronteras' sign promising colombian & tex-mex cuisine, we naturally assumed the emphasis, like many Latin restaurants trying to make a buck on American palettes, would be on the latter. We were wrong. Colombian is first and foremost here. So we ordered the first plato tipico on the menu: bandeja paisa ($11.95), a hearty, overwhelming protein punch that would send a Denny's Grand Slam whimpering. Four kinds of meat: chorizo, hammered and lightly-spiced flank steak, red beans in a meat sauce, and finally, chicharrón, a slab of salted, deep-fried pork belly similar to pork rinds, but better, and much bigger. All that meat would be enough to stop a heart or two, but the plate also comes with a huge mound of rice with a fried egg on top. Wait, there's more: It's garnished with a whole baked plantain. About half of this went home in a Styrofoam container. Our other dish, pechuga al cilantro ($9.95), was a delicious chicken cutlet pounded thin and grilled in olive oil, cilantro, and lime, served with french fries, a simple salad, and a mound of rice. The flavors in both were rich and rustic, the calories beyond counting. We suggest Sin Fronteras for dinner before a long night of drinking or lunch before you move your friend's entire apartment. Oof.

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