Does it strike anyone else as odd that Maryland's pit beef belt runs around Baltimore, not through it? This has forced us to eat our way around I-695 in the pursuit of worthy pit, and recently we stopped in at the bright yellow canopy of Howard County's the Canopy (no relation to Glen Burnie's). The name-inspiring overhang touts the spot's past "Baltimore's Best" awards from other publications, and the massive hunks of beef resting on the grill behind the no-nonsense take-out counter promise great things. We ordered a pair of medium-rare pit sandwiches (medium, $5.95; large $6.95) with drizzles of horseradish-and-mayo "tiger sauce." The cheese requested for one was only available as an orange dribble of melty cheddar sauce, but this didn't turn out to be the disaster we feared--in fact, the cheese eater was pleased with fully integrated cheddar taste. The beef itself was, like most pit beef we've had, light on beef flavor and bearing no hint whatsoever of any seasoning, but it was more moist and tender than many versions. We grabbed extra salt packets for the boardwalk-style fries ($2.95 for a large order) but didn't need it, as they were deliciously salty right out of the cup. Not bad, but the quest continues.