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With its supercool, '50s-era fake fireplace/stereo contraption, ancient jukebox, and a (receiptless) cash register dating from William Burroughs' heyday, the Bohemian Coffee House, a block north of the Charles Theatre, might be mistaken as a retro retreat. The menu, however, is thoroughly modern, even trendy, featuring vegan milkshakes ($4) and vegan blueberry cobbler with soy ice cream ($4) amid the more commonplace chocolate chip brownie ($3.75) and lattes and espressos ($3). The brownie is a treat for chocolate purists, a soft, moist bog of dark, bitter flavor studded with semi-sweet stones and topped with a fresh strawberry. Lunch is at hand too, though vegetarians may be disappointed by the choices of caprese salad ($5) and sesame peanut noodle salad ($5). The four other menu choices are all meat-centered. The muffaletta sandwich ($6) was thick with capicola and three layers of soft, almost runny cheese that tasted like a cross between provolone, mozzarella and good ol' American slices instead of the traditional Emmental. The bread was suitably crusty without being harsh, and the relish added just a bit of spice and olives to the mix. All-in-all, the coffee house is a nice addition to the couple blocks between the train station and North Avenue. But, for now at least, don't count on it as a quick stop after a movie: Bohemian closes at a very non-bohemian 7 p.m.

E-mail Edward Ericson Jr.