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Lee Gardner

Charcoal Grill

Address:8535 Old Harford Road
Parkville, MD 21234

More on Charcoal Grill.

By Lee Gardner | Posted 9/9/2009

This suburban carry-out stand is one of those places where work trucks swarm the parking lot at lunchtime and urban foodies tend to speak well of the fare. While we're still not completely convinced that Maryland-style pit cooking is the best thing one can do with a piece of beef, the Charcoal Grill serves up some of the best we've had. The regular pit beef sandwich ($5.69) was no modest morsel; there's a colossal version ($9.49), as well, if you're eating for two. Heaped inside a Kaiser roll and topped with mayo and horseradish, the meat bore the distinct tang of a charcoal-seared exterior and was moist and flavorful, though not overly so. The fries, on the other hand, rocked. Cut and served boardwalk-style, a regular order ($3.69) delivered unabashed salty pleasure and got gobbled up faster than the sandwich.

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