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Sam Holden

The Falls

Address:1604 Kelly Ave.
Baltimore, MD 

More on The Falls.

By Lee Gardner | Posted 1/6/2010

The once bright walls of the former Freda's Kitchen space in Mount Washington have been painted an eggplant-y gray, rows of elegant white tables and chairs look out onto Kelly Avenue, and racks of wine bottles have replaced coolers full of Dr. Brown's soda. There's obviously some ambition here to make this new self-proclaimed "neighborhood café" more swank than its home-y deli predecessor, but a recent lunch found room for more upgrading. A rustic Italian sandwich ($8)--Genoa salami, capicola, prosciutto, and provolone cheese--arrived on a stylish square plate but was served deli style with a loose scattering of chips and a better-than-average pickle. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't very memorable; a soft Italian roll, instead of the dense ciabatta, might have helped it not seem like such a chore to finish. And, admittedly, ordering a veggie powerhouse wrap ($6) in the dead of winter means not expecting a bounty of garden flavors; wrapped in a wheat tortilla with muenster cheese, it provided similarly unremarkable belly fill. A cup of Zeke's Armistead blend (16 oz., $2) was delicious, if not exactly worth a special trip. In addition to small breakfast and lunch menus, the Falls is slowly rolling out dinner service. It's up to the neighborhood.

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