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Mexican and Central American eateries may be popping up all over Baltimore's East Side, but the northern suburbs still lag in anything involving tortillas that doesn't have a big chain behind it. The tanks of dark-purple Jamaican and creamy downhome horchata next to the Pepsi fountain in this newish storefront serving American Mexican staples telegraph that someone somewhere in the operation has some auténtico roots. Two al pastor tacos for $5.25 isn't quite a taco-truck deal, though, and the tidbits of pork bundled into the flour tortillas lacked the promised marinated-in flavor. A steak burrito ($6.50) came off light on the steak and heavy on the black beans; a faint hint of cumin tantalized, but we ended up slathering the last half in the complimentary tomato salsa to combat the blandness. The swank mural and the Bible verses painted on the wall bespeak a labor of love, but a foodie find this isn't.

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