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It's totally bizarre that even in this heat-blasted hell summer, the urge to pour cream, cheese, and liquefied spinach down your throat persists. Yes, this old Indian delivery standby keeps on, complete with the sorta comical, not infrequent two-hour delivery times--for, like, six blocks?--and consistently great quality making it worth the wait. Our de rigueur order is the above crudely described palak paneer ($9.95), a pungent purAce of spinach, heavy cream, and spice dotted with cubes of salty cheese--in around a dozen orders, it's maybe let us down once--and a couple of veggie samosas ($1.35), usually good pie-crust flaky and filled with a mild and sometimes mealy mixture of peas, potato, and other veggies. On a particularly carnivorous night, we might swap in lamb do-plaza ($10.95), a spicy, oily, thoroughly decadent stew of falling-apart tender meat and onions. Also: upgrade to the garlic naan ($2.25), a variation packed full of garlic and coriander. Delicious.

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