Sushi hit the suburbs in a big way about 10 years ago, and there are a lot of OK, if not truly inspired, Japanese joints around. Ultimately, it's in the fish--how fresh and how good--where many sushi places fail, proffering less-than-stellar salmon or tuna that's seen better days. Not Edo. The pleasant but professional owners here take their fish seriously, and it's always excellent, impeccably fresh, and of prime quality. Among the maki, spicy tuna ($4.50) is a favorite, outshone only by the hamachi (yellowtail) with scallions ($4.50). The latter counterpoints the yellowtail against the acerbic crunch of green onion, showcasing the fish's marvelous butteriness. More elaborate but no less enjoyable is Edo's version of rock and roll ($8.95), a rich combination of sweet roasted unagi (eel) and crunchy cucumber, draped with thin slices of avocado and drizzled with a caramelized soy-based sauce.
There are lovely appetizers to pave the way for fish, too. Conch salad ($4.95) is unbelievably tender, spicy with chile, and rich with sesame. Kani kara ($7.95) is a crunchy, panko breadcrumb-encrusted version of fried soft crab. For those who don't do seafood, Edo also has an interesting roster of traditional dishes like nabe mono (Japanese hot pots, around $10), and terrific tonkatsu (tempura-fried pork loin, $10.95). No matter what you order, the conscientious waitstaff, clad in kimonos and traditional tabi socks and sandals, and the serene, attractive dining room make a visit to Edo a pleasurable experience.