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Don't let the name fool you: King's Kabab isn't a Middle Eastern joint but a traditional neighborhood Indian restaurant that serves kebabs in addition to the usual tandooris, curries, etc. Like every other neighborhood Indian restaurant, King's also offers a perfectly fine but rather blah lunchtime buffet ($6.95), whose only highlight was its saag (spinach), which was bright, fresh, and bursting with flavor. King's success with vegetables continued when we came back for dinner: The mutter paneer (a vegetarian curry dish with peas and homemade cheese, $7.95) featured mild yet tasty spices and, again, fresh veggies. Our meat dish, bhuna gosht (a lamb curry, $11.95), was also good but less successful. While the onion, ginger, garlic, and spice sauce was terrific--practically oil-free and light on the stomach--the lamb was a little tougher than we like it. Also very good was our appetizer, chicken hot patties ($3.25)--kinda like a gourmet, freshly baked, well-spiced Hot Pocket.

The real highlight, however, was King's friendly, attentive service. Helpful menu advice was proffered, cooking times were well-explained, and--this is rare at Cheap Eats-type restaurants--our water glasses stayed full. While King's may not be worth the trip from the city, if you live or work in Columbia, you oughta give it a try.