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The sign above Mount Everest's door--NEPALESE · INDIAN · AMERICAN--immediately reveals this Parkville strip-mall restaurant's schizo personality. It's a standard takeout joint with a menu of subs, pizzas, etc. It's also a neighborhood Indian restaurant featuring tandooris, tikka masalas, a $6.99 lunch buffet, and the like. And once this 3-week-old eatery finds its footing, it has a good chance of becoming a destination for adventurous diners.

The only Nepalese dish on Everest's menu now is a preparation called junelly, a mix of vegetables and potatoes "in a cream sauce with mountain spices." We tried the chicken version ($10.99), and the sauce/spice mix was a unique, tasty curry blend. Seeing our disappointment that more Nepalese dishes weren't available, our server revealed the special: curry salmon ($13.99). Hunks of good, fleshy salmon swam in a delicious black peppercorn-studded curry sauce, which overwhelmed the fish at times but could be easily pushed aside to be mopped up later with warm, flaky naan ($1.75). We also tried an order of fairly average samosas (two for $2.50) and a very good vegetable korma ($9.50), which featured the expected mix of veggies, potatoes, and yogurt sauce, and also nuts, fresh herbs, and fried corn. The server told us Everest's owners plan to add more Nepalese dishes to the menu if customers like them. That's a hint, folks.