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Shepherd's Pies of Scotland

Shepherd's Pies of Scotland

This location is closed

By Tom Scocca | Posted 3/6/2002

It's another realm, this pastry shop. Not because of the Scottish tourism brochures, the cans of "custard powder" on the shelves, or the array of single-serving pies, brown and cunning, under glass. Nor even the promise of haggis, made to order on 48 hours notice. Here's what's alien: The pies are two bucks. Meat pie, curry pie, quiche pie . . . two bucks, two bucks, two bucks. They're as big around as CDs, as deep as the long joint of my thumb. There is no catch. It's a waking dream, in which appetite is unchecked by money-worry.

I get five pies, a salmon cake, a Scotch egg, an assortment of sweets--a bulging bag of eatables. I grab a can of Irn Bru, Scotland's rusty-looking citrus soda, but leave it on the counter in a daze as I take back change from a $20. You can heat the food in the oven or microwave. It's not delicate. The Scotch egg ($2) is a fluffy boiled egg, thickly jacketed in peppery, evenly fatty sausage meat--"formidable," a witness puts it. The salmon cake ($1.25) is nicely peppery too. The pies! A standard meat pie, with ground beef and a whiff of spice, passes muster with a one-time Edinburgh resident. The tomato-cheese pie has fresh tomato and abundant cheese. I have a lamb shepherd's pie, topped with crisp-baked mashed potatoes, and a macaroni-and-cheese one. They make breakfast and lunch, and a down payment on dinner. Especially with a bonnet cookie, a perfect-sized morsel of soft cake with butter icing. For a quarter.

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